Glacier National Park: Its Splendor In A Colossal Train Empire

Glacier National Park: Its Splendor In A Colossal Train Empire

 

When Glacier National Park is mentioned most people think of Going-To-The-Sun Road. After all, who would want to miss one of the most beautiful roads in America? In reality, we need to give credit to the Great Northern Railway for bringing their vision of a northwest recreation area to Montana in order to challenge the Alps for American tourists. Albeit, they saw an opportunity to create their empire where they raked in all the riches. Be that as it may, the rail made Glacier National Park.

 

The Great Northern Railway Empire

 

 

Glacier National Park would look much different today if not for the Great Northern Railway empire. Its president, James J. Hill carried out his vision to build a tourist empire through northwest America. He built the railway so that each stop was on his property. 

 

During the early 1900s, wealthy American tourists visited Europe. Hill simply wanted their money. In order to capture their lavish spending, he built lodges, chalets, hotels, towns, and ranches at the same time he built his railway empire.  

 

He started the scenic route in St. Paul, Minnesota, and continued to Seattle, Washington. At the time, a railway didn’t exist through this part of the country, so the Great Northern Railway would have it all to itself. 

 

Furthermore, the Great Northern Railway crafted its empire of towns and attractions from St. Paul to Seattle.  

 

For this reason, Amtrak calls their passenger train line through this same territory the Empire Builder.  People still crave a connection from the past to the present and what better route?

 

Demise Of The Empire

Notably, the heyday of the Great Northern Railway lasted only a few decades. People didn’t need trains as much when the automobile became more affordable for personal use. Thus, more vacations were spent driving around America to places that didn’t rely on the path of railways.

 

Next, the Great Depression pilfered pockets of any extra money for vacations. In other words, people stayed home.

 

Immediately after the Great depression World War Two started. By and large important resources needed rationing, for instance, gasoline and tires.  By the time World War Two was over in 1944 train travel had been left behind.

 

As a result of the rapid decline of train travel, much of the Great Northern Railway’s empire fell into shambles. Many abandoned buildings deteriorated beyond repair.  Soon after, a majority of their properties sold for pennies on the dollar.

 

However, the centerpiece Many Glacier Hotel, is still operating and we would highly recommend visiting. You won’t be disappointed!

 

Selling The Adventure

 

To lure American tourists away from trendy Europe Hill needed a marketing campaign. He initially started with “See America First”. Next, he promoted his new railroad adventure as “America’s Alps” to further entice those still traveling to Europe.  

 

Buildup Of The Montana Empire

 

Hill heavily bent the ears of legislation in Washington, D.C. to create Glacier National Park in 1910. He believed his railroad empire could handsomely profit from Montana’s northwest mountains. Besides, people had to ride his trains and stay at his accommodations. 

 

The Great Northern Railway feverishly built all the infrastructure needed in just a few years. This included massive lodges, chalets, roads, and trails to entice tourists. Not to mention, guides for hunting and leading high-paying tourists through the park on horseback. Each night they stayed in a different section with chalets built throughout the backcountry. 

 

The whole framework was intentionally linked all over the park by trails, roads, and communication lines.

 

Even though Glacier became a new national park, Hill called the shots.

 

The Historic Izaak Walton Inn

How would you like a south entrance to Glacier National Park? It almost happened but World War Two derailed the plans.

  

Planning and work started exactly halfway between the East and West entrances in Essex on Highway 2. The East Glacier entrance is 28 miles while the West Glacier entrance is only 25 miles away. Additionally, St. Marys is 1.5 hours away and the Logan Pass visitor center is 2 hours away. 

 

The Izaak Walton Hotel was built by the Great Northern Railway to house and feed railroad workers. Originally, the town was called Walton but now is known as Essex.  

 

Now, the Izaak Walton Inn is a privately owned hotel. Along with rooms in this historic hotel, you can also stay in refurbished cabooses, a diesel engine, cabins, chalets, and an old schoolhouse.

 

Tourists from around the world stay in this iconic railway Inn. Much of their business comes from riders on the Amtrak Empire Builder train. The Inn will conveniently shuttle you to and from the nearby train station if you let them know your schedule.  

 

Even though we did not stay at the Izaak Walton Inn, or get compensated in any way, we still found it interesting.

Isaac Walton Inn Resembles Its Railroad History

 

The Izaak Walton Inn fully embraces its train history and I (Tom) am fascinated with it. You will certainly have plenty to take in! 

 

Inside, train memorabilia enriches every aspect of your stay, but outside is what I find exciting.

First of all, the restored cabooses drew me in as I noticed them scattered around the property. Their bright colors uniquely stood out in the trees on the hill behind the Inn. We noticed several on the property too as we drove in. My favorites are the ones with the old-style Great Northern Railway mountain goat logo. I love the bright red cabooses with the large white mountain goat proudly standing tall on a rock.

Next, I noticed the enormous blue diesel locomotive next to the Inn. In the same way, it had been converted into a room to stay in.  

 

We followed the walkway beside the locomotive onto a footbridge overlooking train tracks. Trainspotting is perfect here! A large number of trains travel on the tracks bordering Glacier National Park and they pass right under your feet from this footbridge. How cool is that! 

We spotted a snowplow locomotive used for track maintenance next to the Izaak Walton Inn. We recommend going after a snowfall because the snow highlights the colors on the mountains and trains.

 

What To Do

Furthermore, since Glacier National Park borders the Inn you can hike into the park. Access is nearby and only 1/4th of a mile away at the Walton Ranger Station.  Equally important, you can cross country ski or hike from your doorstep. You can ski in or ski-out from your cabin, rail car, or room.  

Here are some essential tips to note about the Izaak Walton Inn.

Cell service isn’t available in the Essex area for an hour in each direction. Yea or nay?

Wi-Fi can only be found in the lobby.

The hotel doesn’t allow pets.

The Izaak Walton Inn is only accessible on the first floor, and this is from a chairlift.

No TVs or phones are in the rooms.

Don’t be surprised by a resort fee in addition to room rates.

Essex has very limited services, but the Inn has a full-service restaurant.

You can rent skis and snowshoes from the Inn.

Their property includes miles of hiking or cross-country ski trails.

 

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Flathead National Forest

This is important. Most people only focus on Glacier National Park, but the Flathead National Forest borders much of the park. This is essential because there are excellent trails with beautiful scenery in the national forest. We found outstanding views of Glacier National Park along its forest roads.

 

Another key point to remember is that you will not have nearly the crowds that Glacier has. You can have a remarkable experience in the Flathead National Forest too.

 

Our insider tip: We ordered the Flathead National Forest Motor Vehicle Use Maps for each district because we like to drive forest roads. These are free and the Ranger’s office mailed them to us. Each ranger district has a nice fold-out paper map, but if you prefer you can download a digital map too.  

 

You can buy many different types of maps on their website. We recommend buying them first before you leave instead of waiting to get them at the ranger stations. This will also save time so there’s less running around to do when you get there. They have several different types of maps you can buy too. For reference, The Izaak Walton Inn is inside the Hungry Horse Ranger District.

 

Here’s the link for all of their maps.

Refer to Leave No Trace Principle number 1, plan ahead and prepare.

 

Goat Lick Overlook

 

Don’t pass Goat Lick Overlook. Look for it on Highway 2 about 2 miles southeast of the Walton Ranger Station.

  

Goat Lick Overlook is where you have a good chance to see fluffy white mountain goats. Even though they are a little distant, they can be fun to look for.  

 

From the parking area walk the short paved path to the observation stand. Equally important, everyone can enjoy the overlook because the path is wheelchair accessible. You can see the Middle Fork Of The Flathead River and its exposed river bank. Goats gather here to lick minerals off the cliff.

  

Mountain goats travel up to four miles to come here because minerals like calcium, potassium, and magnesium exist in concentration and end up being easy to lick. Occasionally you can see elk and deer too. Around 115 to 165 mountain goats come to lick here each season from April to August. With this in mind, you will see the most together at one time from late June and throughout July. But, dawn and dusk produce the best chances to see them.

 

More Tips

 

Also, check below the Highway 2 underpass too. A wildlife path was built below the underpass so they didn’t need to cross the busy highway. Likewise, another excellent place to view wildlife that’s even closer than the cliffs.

 

Furthermore, some tips for visiting Goat Lick Overlook. 

Because the mountain goats will be distant from the overlook, bring binoculars or a zoom lens.

Don’t forget to look under the overpass just west of the parking area for a closer look.

Watch for trains since they follow alongside the highway.

The Goat Lick Overlook sign might be missing so just look for the parking area with restrooms.

Speaking of restrooms, Goat Lick Overlook is halfway in between the entrances of West Glacier and East Glacier. This might be the only public restroom stop in between the entrances.  

 

What? Biking Without Traffic On Going-To-The_Sun Road

 

Do you want to hear about one of the best-kept secrets in Glacier National Park?

 

In Spring you can bike or hike on Going-To-The-Sun Road with no vehicles allowed. Yes, that’s right, not a single vehicle. Could there be any better family activity while visiting the park?

 

I don’t know about you, but this excites us!

You see, snow removal crews start clearing the road to Logan Pass in Spring so it’s already closed. The road is open exclusively to ride or walk as far as the plows permit. Crews normally work Monday through Friday from mornings to afternoons and you can ride up to their stoppage sign. Otherwise, when they are not working you can ride as far as road conditions permit.

 

You can park at the gates along with other visitors. Of course, don’t block the gates or road.

  

Two sections on the west side have gates. The first gate is nearby Lake McDonald Lodge and has plenty of parking. Further up the road is the next gate at Avalanche Creek and the campground. On the east side, Rising Sun is typically where they close the road.

 

Important Links

 

Look for updates Monday through Friday with the current conditions.

Click here to check the current Glacier National Park road conditions.

Click here to check the Going-To-The-Sun Road plow position.

 

Where To Rent Bikes

 

You can take your bikes or even rent them nearby. Here are a few choices in Whitefish.

Sportsman & Ski Haus

Glacier Cyclery & Nordic

Great Northern Cycle & Ski

 

If you prefer you can even hire a guide from GlacierGuides.com that takes care of the ride to and from the park from their office in West Glacier, lunch, and your rental bikes.

 

Here are a few important details if you decide to bike or hike this.

Treat this as if it were a hiking trip by bringing food, water, and most importantly bear spray.

Always remember avalanche conditions exist.

Come prepared for wildlife.

Follow the seven principles of Leave No Trace.

 

Leave No Trace Seven Principles

 

Let’s face it. People are getting outdoors in record numbers. All parks are getting overcrowded from national parks, state parks, and down to local parks.

 

We see more litter, and abuse from visitors without respect for our outdoor spaces. Even though mostly unintentional, I think many people just don’t understand the basic principles that keep our parks natural. 

 

We need everyone to do their small part so we can keep enjoying outdoor spaces in the original, natural way. We’re trying to do our part and hopefully, we all can improve.

 

In a nutshell, these seven principles will allow everyone to enjoy our parks. How many do you know?

 

1. Plan ahead and prepare. This means understanding rules and special considerations for your area. Arrange your trip around high use times. For instance, in the middle of the week instead of weekends and avoid holidays. Never build rock cairns.

2. Travel and camp on a durable surface. Stay on trails and designated campsites, keeping campsites small, and camping 200 feet from lakes and streams.

3. Properly dispose of waste. Pack it in and pack it out. This means everything. Use restroom facilities as much as possible, or else dig cat holes 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, campsites, and trails then cover. For bathing or dishes use biodegradable soap then carry water 200 feet from lakes and streams.

4. Leave what you find. Leave everything you come across where it is, thus preserving structures, artifacts, plants, etc.

5. Minimize campfire impacts. Only build small fires when and where permitted, use official fire rings or pits, and only use wood that is dead or downed. Let fires burn completely down into ash, then put completely put out. After the fire is out scatter the ashes.

6. Respect wildlife. Never feed, follow or approach. Securely store your food and trash. Leave wildlife alone and do not disturb them.

7. Be Respectful of others. Consider other people and allow them to have a quality experience too. Be courteous and remember to treat others like you want to be treated. Avoid loud voices and noises.

 

To see the official Leave No Trace Principles click here for the National Park Service official page.  

 

Hiking

 

Apgar Lookout Trail

 

Apgar Lookout Trail leads to a historic fire lookout tower built in 1929 and is registered on the National Register of Historic Places. You will see majestic views of Lake McDonald, snowy peaks, and the Flathead River. Panoramic views are not only at the top but also on the switchbacks going up the mountain.

 

The trailhead is by the West Glacier Entrance Station, going about 2 miles past the Swan Mountain Outfitters horse corral.   The trail starts as an easy walk on a dirt road then in under a mile turns into a steady climb to the top.

  

Wildlife you could see from the trail includes bald eagles, deer, red fox, grouse, wolves, and bears. Not to mention squirrels and chipmunks.

 

The first thing to remember is to PLAN ON SEEING BEARS. You should prepare yourself with all appropriate safety measures as if you will come across bears, even if you don’t. Bear spray is a must. With this in mind, you are ready just in case. It’s better to be prepared than to be sorry.

 

Of course, look for wildflowers and huckleberries. Huckleberries become ripe in July through August and make a special treat.

 

Pointers For Apgar Lookout Trail

 

You will be exposed to the elements almost the entire way so dress accordingly. Wear layers to protect yourself from the sun as well as the wind. Regardless of the forecast, this hike is always windy. You will also be unprotected from the sun so wear sunscreen and bring plenty of water. Of course, don’t forget your hiking poles.

 

Leave early in the morning to beat the heat since it does get very hot on this trail. Despite leaving early the sun will face you most of the way so a hat is recommended. Consequently, the best time to take photos is in the afternoon during the hottest part of the day.

 

Since the trail is exposed it is also one of the first trails to open since the snow melts off quickly.

 

The Apgar Lookout Trail can become busy so leave early in the morning or plan a mid-week trip.

 

South Boundary Trail

If you are looking for a good family hike then the South Boundary Trail is a good choice. This scenic hike follows the meandering Middle Fork Of The Flathead River and is rated for all skill levels. Not only can you explore the natural beauty, but you will also have fun crossing over distinctive bridges, experiencing historical landmarks, and looking for wildlife. This trail was the original year-round route rangers used to patrol the southern border of the park. Then Highway 2 was built in 1930.  

 

This easy trail stretches through flat wooded areas and crosses over small creeks trickling to the river. There’s plenty of river scenery too as the path follows along closely.  At the same time, you can enjoy your relaxing walk along the river and kids will love exploring on the rocky shores. 

 

Once you reach Lincoln Creek cross the lively suspension bridge. After crossing the bridge look for the Lincoln Creek snowshoe cabin. To point out, in the early days park rangers stayed here when on patrol.

 

For the most part, hikers turn around and go back to Lincoln Creek.

 

By the same token, those who keep going to the Harrison Lake Trail junction find a nice treat. Specifically, the hunting lodge remains from the Dan and Josephine Doody homestead. They settled their homestead before the creation of Glacier National Park in 1910. Look for the plaque explaining their wild history in this hideout.

 

How To Find The South Boundary Trail

 

You can start at two different places in West Glacier. 

 

The first is close to park headquarters off of Going-To-The-Sun Road. Turn on Grinnell Road and go past the headquarters then turn right on Mather Drive. Follow a short distance to the end of the road. You will see a parking area at the trailhead with enough room for about 3 to 5 vehicles max.

 

Second, and probably the most popular in West Glacier, is on Old River Bridge Road. From Highway 2 turn on Going-To-The-Sun Road and look for Old River Bridge Road just past the Canadian Visitor’s Center. Turn right and follow along the railroad to the bridge. There’s much more room here to park.

 

Important Tips To Remember.  

 

Do not block any gates or access to the trail because you might get towed.

Look out for wildlife like deer, elk, and bears.

Prepare as if you might come across bears by following all safety guidelines.

Bring bear spray.

Bring insect repellent and don’t forget about ticks.

Watch kayaks and rafts in late spring to early summer.

Watch for trains along the river.

Clean restrooms can be found in the Canadian visitor’s center.  

HAVE FUN!

 

Final Thoughts

 

I have recently learned that I am a big fan of trains. Particularly from a historical perspective of how railroad tycoons built America along their rails. Here in America, we have a love affair with train travel. In essence, taking a train was how people commuted and vacationed before automobiles were affordable for the everyday person.

 

Many of us still hold this nostalgia closely since train travel connects us with earlier periods. Traveling by railways helps us to hold on to our cherished memories that modern times are slowly but surely erasing.

 

Glacier National Park is so much more than railroad history, even though that’s how it was created. When we think of GNP stunning mountains come to mind first. Next, driving the roads in and around the park taking in beautiful views, and then experiencing the park firsthand each step along the way. Needless to say, wildlife always highlights our trip.

 

For us, we always leave Glacier National Park and its surrounding wilderness feeling refreshed. After all, peace and solitude are what we covet while traveling.

 

Thanks for reading Glacier National Park: Its Splendor In A Colossal Train Empire!

Tom and Kristi